Deeper into the Park

This is how they roll in winter.

Up at 5:30, packed and ready to join our tour group, we arrived at the Mammoth Hotel at 6:30 and were herded on to our snow coaches. I’m not a big fan of group travel (ironic for someone who spent 25 years in the cruise business), but in some circumstances, it’s the only way to experience a remote destination. Our trusty van-on-treads took us from Mammoth deep into the park. The snow got deeper too, relatively. Normal snowfall for central Yellowstone is 6 to 12 feet; it’s a fraction of that this year. The signs of early spring are clear: the bear are coming out of hibernation already (we packed our bear spray at the last minute), and the bison are feeling frisky. We saw large herds in the Madison area, and the young bulls were jousting and frolicking (not a term you’d normally associate with bison). 

We arrived at Old Faithful about noon, and checked in to the Snow Lodge. Tingeing a bit green after the long snow coach ride, I was happy to get out for some fresh air. We strapped on our Yaktrax and walked the Geyser Loop Trail from the lodge. During the summer months, this boardwalk trail would be packed with tourists. But today we had it to ourselves for long stretches — well, except for the herd of bison taking a steam bath in the geothermals, just yards away from us. Gurgling geysers, brooding bison, mice-hunting coyote; it was a surreal stroll in a lunar-like landscape. 

Spa treatment at Old Faithful's geothermal.

Back at the lodge, we readied ourselves for tomorrow’s adventure: snowmobiling. I’ve never ridden a snowmobile, and honestly never thought I would. And as our guide lamented the lack of snow and the possibility of some “rough riding,” I’m feeling more than a bit trepidatious. But what’s an adventure without some adversity, right? Right???

We just strolled by this herd of bison. The boardwalk gave us a false sense of security.  Crazy tourists!